This is what I meant when I said the traffic was scary -
http://www.thejakartapost.com/news/2009/09/19/184-killed-idul-fitri-homecoming-rushpolice.html
In Indonesia, when people say goodbye, they often add "Hati-hati!", which means be careful/take care.
Ever since Therese and I fell off the bus on two separate occasions, we learnt the hard way that Indonesians don't just say "hati-hati" for nothing.
On MSN too, along with their goodbyes they type "TTDJ", which means "HaTi HaTi Di Jalan" (Take care on the road).
Take care indeed! Because the traffic is so scary it can kill you.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Sunday, September 6, 2009
People who Stand Out.
Last night, while returning home on Transjogja (the public buses which run till 10pm) from S and FY's place, I saw 4 transvestites. I wasn't sure if they had the whole transformation (so that even their genitals are of a female's, but they had boobs all right), but they were... strange.
Indonesian society is not conservative - in fact, it's probably one of the most liberal in Southeast Asia, after the Philippines. The art fair at Taman Budaya says it all. The art pieces were anti-Christianity, anti-American, but yet they got shown anyway. The government after Suharto's reign is trying to show Indonesians that in order to be an advanced society, many different views would have to be entertained (read it in one of the academic papers I brought over) and allowed some air time. There's also this whole discussion if wearing the headscarf limits or frees a woman. To some, the headscarf is a symbol of the old world which was governed by old traditions of Islam. However, to others, wearing the headscarf is a sign that the person has been enlightened by the ways of Islam and understands more about the religion. In other words, this woman is a well-educated woman who fully understands the meaning of being a Muslim. Many women here go through some inner searching before they don the headscarf, unlike in Malaysia where there is an unspoken rule for Muslim women to wear them(?).
So, even though people thought that the transvestites were an eyesore, nobody said anything since it's a free world. They were talking loudly while the rest of the people in the shelter averted their eyes or turned away from them - because it's rude to stare, you see. One of them had an over-puffed up lip, like a botox operation went wrong. Another of them had gorgeous boobs - it swelled beautifully above her low neckline. Other transvestites passed by the bus stop and stopped to talk to their friends.
Transjogja bus stops are elevated above the ground level so people had to ascend a slope to pay in order to get into a bus stop. Trips are Rp3.000, no matter the number of bus transfers and the time spent on the route. A person can take the bus to anywhere for a whole day without getting out of the bus stop for Rp3.000.
So anyway, in passing, one of those transvestites reached out to try to touch the genitals of this (maybe) 17-year-old male who was standing at the entrance of the bus stop. The boy merely moved out of her reach and said nothing while she laughed and walked away.
I can't imagine that happening in conservative Singapore.
In Indonesia where the Javanese culture teaches that a person should not stand out from the other Javanese, what circumstances have made these girls want to stand out so much?
Indonesian society is not conservative - in fact, it's probably one of the most liberal in Southeast Asia, after the Philippines. The art fair at Taman Budaya says it all. The art pieces were anti-Christianity, anti-American, but yet they got shown anyway. The government after Suharto's reign is trying to show Indonesians that in order to be an advanced society, many different views would have to be entertained (read it in one of the academic papers I brought over) and allowed some air time. There's also this whole discussion if wearing the headscarf limits or frees a woman. To some, the headscarf is a symbol of the old world which was governed by old traditions of Islam. However, to others, wearing the headscarf is a sign that the person has been enlightened by the ways of Islam and understands more about the religion. In other words, this woman is a well-educated woman who fully understands the meaning of being a Muslim. Many women here go through some inner searching before they don the headscarf, unlike in Malaysia where there is an unspoken rule for Muslim women to wear them(?).
So, even though people thought that the transvestites were an eyesore, nobody said anything since it's a free world. They were talking loudly while the rest of the people in the shelter averted their eyes or turned away from them - because it's rude to stare, you see. One of them had an over-puffed up lip, like a botox operation went wrong. Another of them had gorgeous boobs - it swelled beautifully above her low neckline. Other transvestites passed by the bus stop and stopped to talk to their friends.
Transjogja bus stops are elevated above the ground level so people had to ascend a slope to pay in order to get into a bus stop. Trips are Rp3.000, no matter the number of bus transfers and the time spent on the route. A person can take the bus to anywhere for a whole day without getting out of the bus stop for Rp3.000.
So anyway, in passing, one of those transvestites reached out to try to touch the genitals of this (maybe) 17-year-old male who was standing at the entrance of the bus stop. The boy merely moved out of her reach and said nothing while she laughed and walked away.
I can't imagine that happening in conservative Singapore.
In Indonesia where the Javanese culture teaches that a person should not stand out from the other Javanese, what circumstances have made these girls want to stand out so much?
Thursday, September 3, 2009
Pollutants and Chipped Pavements.
The air here is super polluted. Everyday after I come back from school/wherever, I find stuff in my piece of tissue paper when I blow my nose. Clouds of exhaust (visible dust particles) float up from exhaust pipes. People here can use bensin, the same unfiltered stuff found along the streets of Phnom Penh. Filters are not fitted onto exhaust pipes and the public transport system is terrible - thus everybody gets around using motorcycles. Many people do this.
The thing about Yogyakarta is that it is also walker-unfriendly. The pavements are uneven and at every corner, becak guys ask if I need a (overpriced) ride to somewhere. It's either the becak guys, the busboys or the taxi drivers. Also, the sun is scorchingly hot, but I will don a cap when it gets too hot for me. Nobody seems to believe that I decided to walk because I wanted to look closer at each shop that will pass unnoticed if I was on some sort of transport. How does one see a city in a car? A city is best seen on foot. I probably also need to get some exercise after my meal.
The pair of shoes I brought over from Singapore is almost worn out now and I already have another (sturdier) pair waiting in the wings. That's from stepping on the stubble along the streets from the chipped pavements - there's really too many to avoid. I'll thank my lucky stars that I don't kick any of those stones while walking (and I can walk very quickly). Unlike in Cambodia, people should wear shoes here because of these stones on the pavement.
Clothes are surprisingly expensive in Yogyakarta. I found out too late today. A top is probably around the same price as in Singapore, maybe SLIGHTLY cheaper. One of my teachers says she does not buy clothes here, but in Jakarta. Shalina says Bandung is the place to shop as all the factory outlets are there. I think a plan to go there in late November might be in order (after our papers are due). However, Yogyakarta is the place for batik. YAY! I love BATIK to death.
The thing about Yogyakarta is that it is also walker-unfriendly. The pavements are uneven and at every corner, becak guys ask if I need a (overpriced) ride to somewhere. It's either the becak guys, the busboys or the taxi drivers. Also, the sun is scorchingly hot, but I will don a cap when it gets too hot for me. Nobody seems to believe that I decided to walk because I wanted to look closer at each shop that will pass unnoticed if I was on some sort of transport. How does one see a city in a car? A city is best seen on foot. I probably also need to get some exercise after my meal.
The pair of shoes I brought over from Singapore is almost worn out now and I already have another (sturdier) pair waiting in the wings. That's from stepping on the stubble along the streets from the chipped pavements - there's really too many to avoid. I'll thank my lucky stars that I don't kick any of those stones while walking (and I can walk very quickly). Unlike in Cambodia, people should wear shoes here because of these stones on the pavement.
Clothes are surprisingly expensive in Yogyakarta. I found out too late today. A top is probably around the same price as in Singapore, maybe SLIGHTLY cheaper. One of my teachers says she does not buy clothes here, but in Jakarta. Shalina says Bandung is the place to shop as all the factory outlets are there. I think a plan to go there in late November might be in order (after our papers are due). However, Yogyakarta is the place for batik. YAY! I love BATIK to death.
Cultural Goodies
One of Yogyakarta's popular aliases is the Cultural Capital of Indonesia. It's not hard to figure out why when you take into account not only the number of cultural performances and exhibitions going on but the fact that a large number of them are free!
Here are a few places I've found that offer free performances (although sometimes you might need to pay an entrance fee for the venue - but not the performance itself)
1. Kraton - entrance fee 12, 500 RP (Sultan's Palace near Jl. Malioboro)
Karawitan - Monday and Tuesday from 10 a.m. to noon.
Wayang Golek - Wednesday 10 a.m. to nooon.
Gamelan and Classical Javanese music - Thursday 10 a.m. to noon.
Macapat - Friday 10 a.m. to noon
Wayang kulit - Saturday 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.
2. RRI (Radio Republik Indonesia)
Look out for banners with information on free concerts ranging from classical Western music to rock to traditional Javanese music. RRI is located along Jalan Gejayan. Bus number 7 from outside PSSAT (Pusat Studi Sosial Asia Tenggara) will drop you off directly opposite.
3. Taman Budaya (near Jl. Malioboro)
Taman Budaya can be 'friended' on facebook for regular updates on events and performances that are playing at their venue. Many of these are free (or "gratis" as they say in Indonesia) or not very expensive at all.
4. Institut Seni Indonesia (ISI)
ISI is kind of far if you live near Jogja City, which is a pity because nearly every day of the week there is something going on there. Performances, practices, run throughs, classes, masterclasses...and the students and faculty members are so friendly they will let you hang out there and observe things all day long.
5. UGM Campus
UGM has many budding musicians as well primarily from "Fakulitas Ilmu Budaya" or the Faculty of Cultural Sciences. They often put on performances and it is worth taking a trip down to their faculty and looking out for posters and banners for details. If you're feeling brave, say hello to a stranger and ask them if they know of any! Students at UGM are generally very happy to speak to exchange students and help them out in any way possible.
...and of course if you feel like supporting the local arts scene in a more substantial way, there is no shortage of non-gratis performances. Sometimes there are also student discounts so remember to bring your UGM student ID card with you. :)
Wednesday, September 2, 2009
An Interesting Read.
While looking online for the price of a motorcycle helmet in Yogyakarta (just wanted to buy a couple back to Singapore for fun), I stumbled upon this series of blog entries written by a Caucasian man in 1998, during the time of the riots against the Chinese.
http://okusi.net/garydean/works/journal1998.html
He converted to Islam to marry a Muslim woman, and these entries have pictures of Solo and, more importantly, of Yogyakarta during 1998. From the few pictures there, it's clearly seen that Yogyakarta has changed significantly since then. Jalan Gejayan has more buildings along it now.
He also details his experience getting married to a Muslim woman (being a Caucasian man with no family ties in Indonesia!) and the things he had to do to get her father's agreement.
http://okusi.net/garydean/works/journal1998.html
He converted to Islam to marry a Muslim woman, and these entries have pictures of Solo and, more importantly, of Yogyakarta during 1998. From the few pictures there, it's clearly seen that Yogyakarta has changed significantly since then. Jalan Gejayan has more buildings along it now.
He also details his experience getting married to a Muslim woman (being a Caucasian man with no family ties in Indonesia!) and the things he had to do to get her father's agreement.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)